杏吧原创

A taste for the rare may drive sturgeon to extinction

Snobbish attitudes drive a strong preference for caviar supposedly from "rare" species, even when the samples are the same

IRRATIONAL preferences for caviar from rarer species are likely to drive the few remaining caviar sturgeon in the Caspian Sea to extinction.

Franck Courchamp and Agn猫s Gault of the University of Paris-South in Orsay ran taste tests at luxury receptions, where people were used to eating caviar, and among naive consumers at supermarkets. Tasters were presented with samples said to be from a 鈥渞are鈥 and a 鈥渃ommon鈥 species 鈥 although both actually came from farmed sturgeon.

Even before tasting, 57 per cent of people at the luxury receptions expressed a preference for the 鈥渞are鈥 caviar, while none preferred the 鈥渃ommon鈥 alternative, Courchamp told the Society for Conservation Biology鈥檚 meeting in Chattanooga, Tennessee, on Monday. After tasting the two identical samples, 70 per cent of the experienced consumers said they preferred the 鈥渞are鈥 caviar.

鈥淎fter they had tasted the two identical samples, 70 per cent of people said they preferred the 鈥榬are鈥 caviar鈥

It was the same story in the supermarkets, with 52 per cent preferring the 鈥渞are鈥 caviar before tasting it, and 74 per cent expressing the same preference after they had done so. 鈥淚t鈥檚 very scary,鈥 says Ellen Pikitch of the Pew Institute for Ocean Science in New York.

The fact that people who are not yet in the champagne-and-caviar set have the same predilection means that threats to sturgeon will only grow with rising prosperity. 鈥淭he expanding economy of China is going to put hundreds of thousands of people in reach of these kinds of luxury products,鈥 Courchamp notes.

The results suggest that the availability of farmed products may do little to protect sturgeon from extinction in the absence of a total ban on trading wild-caught caviar.

A one-year ban was introduced by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) in 2006, but failed to halt the sturgeons鈥 decline. 鈥淵ou don鈥檛 save species by stopping trade for a year,鈥 says Pikitch, who runs the charity Caviar Emptor, which is striving to save wild sturgeon. According to some estimates, sturgeon could be virtually wiped out in the Caspian Sea by 2012 at current rates of exploitation.

Endangered species 鈥 Learn more about the conservation battle in our comprehensive special report.